Can Asian Hair Be Low Porosity?
Hair porosity is your hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture and respond to hair products. There are three levels of porosity: high, medium or low. With low porosity, hair has a reduced ability to absorb and retain moisture because the hair’s cuticles are tightly packed. Thus this blocks the hair from moisture and nutrients from products.
Can Asian Hair Be Low Porosity?
Yes, Asian hair can be low porosity. Any hair can have low porosity because hair porosity is majorly determined by genetics and factors like harsh hair treatments and environmental factors.
It is erroneously assumed that Asian hair cannot be low porosity due to its thickness, sleekness and perceived ease of management. But hair, like most things, is not a one-size-fits-all all. Asian hair can be low porosity, and this porosity level can lead to dry frizzy hair that is seemingly immune to products that others swear by.
Let’s explore what it means for Asian hair to be low porosity and all you need to care for it effectively.
Can All Ethnicities Have Low Porosity Hair?
Yes, people of all ethnicities can have low-porosity hair. Hair porosity is not determined by ethnicity although certain ethnicities have a higher tendency for a particular kind of porosity. However, this doesn’t mean that every member of a particular ethnicity will have the same porosity. To be human is to be unique and as such all ethnicities and races can have low porosity hair.
Hair porosity is determined by the structure of the hair cuticles, heavily influenced by genetics, environmental factors and hair treatment. So, if your hair’s cuticles are tightly packed, you have low porosity hair, loosely packed equals high porosity and in between is medium porosity. Tightly packed cuticles mean that it is difficult for moisture and products to penetrate your cuticles blocking your hair from absorbing nutrients and moisture. On the positive side, low porosity means that when moisture and products do penetrate, they stay on longer.
Hair Oils to Use for Low Porosity Asian Hair
Now that you have determined that you have low-porosity Asian hair, the next step is determining the best hair oils for low porosity Asia hair. The best oils to use are lightweight oils because they won’t clog your pores or weigh your hair down. The top lightweight oils are:
1. Argan Oil
Argan oil is a relatively rare and luxurious hair oil. This is due to its labour-intensive extraction process and its being native to the Argan tree in Morocco. This oil is perfect for low-porosity hair because it is lightweight and has a non-comedogenic rating of 0 translating to no clogged pores.
It also offers the following benefits for low-porosity Asian hair:
- Intense hydration - It penetrates deeply and forms a barrier around the hair locking in already absorbed moisture without added greasiness.
- Antioxidant effects – due to the presence of vitamin E and ferulic acid, it protects the hair from damaging environmental factors and UV rays.
- Improves hair elasticity – the presence of essential oils like oleic and linoleic acids improves hair elasticity and strengthens the hair.
- Hastens hair growth – stimulates hair growth due to the presence of the above nutrients. It then adds shine, luster and prevents split hairs.
2. Jojoba Oil
Jojoba oil is derived from the jojoba plant native to North America. Its lightweight nature makes for excellent hydrating effects. Furthermore, it mimics the consistency of natural hair oils/sebum allowing for easy absorption. It contains nutrients like copper, zinc, vitamins C and E and has a non-comedogenic rating of 2 meaning it is unlikely for it to clog your pores. Instead, it forms a layer around the hair sealing in moisture to prevent dryness and breakage.
Its benefits are:
- Balances oil production
- Deep moisturization by improving moisture absorption
- Fortifies the hair by strengthening the strands thus reducing breakage
3. Apricot Oil
Apricot oil is derived from the kernels of the Apricot fruit. It is excellent for low-porosity hair due to its lightweight nature allowing easy hydration. It also contains the following nutrients - oleic acid, linoleic acid, vitamins A and E and palmitic acid.
Additionally, it offers the following benefits:
- Improved moisture absorption
- Stimulates hair growth
- Improves scalp health
4. Grapeseed Oil
Grapeseed oil is a lightweight oil derived from grape seeds with a non-comedogenic rating of 1. Like Argan oil, it hydrates by easily penetrating the scalp and sealing in moisture. It is rich in these nutrients – vitamin E, antioxidants, fatty acids and thus offers the following benefits:
- It seals in moisture and improves absorption
- Has a high smoking point (approximately 390°F/199°C), that prevents heat damage during heat treatments with curling irons, steam caps, or hair dryers.
- Fortifies hair strands and protects against split ends and breakage.
5. Sweet Almond Oil
Sweet almond oil is a natural oil derived from the almond tree with a non-comedogenic rating of 2. It is rich in vitamins A and E, fatty acids, proteins, zinc and potassium.
The benefits are:
- Improves elasticity
- Prevents breakage
- Improves moisture retention
- Antioxidant effect that prevents oxidative stress
- Stimulates hair growth and softens the hair
Like grapeseed oil, it has a high smoking point and thus will be very efficient in heat treatment.
6. Rosehip Oil
Rosehip oil is extracted from the seeds of the fruit of wild rose plants and contains beta carotene, vitamins A and C and fatty acids. It offers the following benefits:
- Ease of penetration and improved moisturization
- Maintains hair elasticity
- Improves hair health
- Antioxidant properties to protect from environmental damage and free radicals.
7. Baobab Oil
Not as prominent as the other oils on this list but just as good. Baobab oil has a non-comedogenic rating of 2 and contains vitamins A, C, D, E, and F, alongside fatty acids.
Its benefits include:
- Prevents hair breakage
- Improved moisture retention
- High emollient properties
Different Ways to Apply Oils in Low Porosity Hair
Having the perfect oil is not enough, knowing how to use it is just as important. Here are some effective ways to incorporate the oils into your hair care routine:
1. Pre-wash Treatment
Using any one of the above oils (or a mixture of them) before you shampoo can have amazing benefits for your hair.
- Apply to dry unwashed hair by thoroughly massaging into your locks.
- Let it sit for a bit (30 minutes to 1 hour) fully wrapped with a cap for extra penetration.
- Wash out your hair with warm water and then do your normal shampoo treatment.
2. Deep Conditioning
- Warm your preferred oil or oils for better penetrattion.
- Apply to your scalp/hair ensuring even distribution.
- Massage thoroughly.
- Then cover for at least 30 minutes, you can use a steam cap for added effect or leave on overnight.
- Wash off with warm water and apply shampoo afterwards.
3. Sealant
First, apply a leave-in conditioner or a liquid-based moisturizer that contains humectants.
Apply oils like jojoba or Argan oil to seal in the moisture from initial products.
The oils add moisture and prevent the escape of existing moisture.
Oils To Avoid for Low Porosity Asian Hair
While there are oils we recommend for low-porosity Asian hair, there are others that are unsuitable due to their consistency. Most notable are:
1. Coconut oil is too heavy for low porosity and causes grease buildup. If you must use coconut oil, go for fractioned coconut oil with a lighter consistency. If you insist on the regular one, wash out with a clarifying shampoo.
2. Castor oil blocks out moisture due to its thick consistency leading to dry scalp and greasiness. If you must use castor oil, go for hydrogenated castor oil which has a lighter consistency. You can also mix with lighter oils to reduce heaviness.
3. Olive oil has a heavy consistency that sits on the hair instead of penetrating for hydration.
How to Choose Oils for Low Porosity Hair
While we cannot list all the oils great for low porosity hair, we can give guidelines to help make the right choice when it comes down to it.
- Go for lightweight oils that have a non-comedogenic rating below 2.
- Avoid oils with a thick consistency as it is difficult for them to penetrate the scalp.
- Opt for oils that are heat resistant or have a high smoking point.
- Your oils should be easy to wash off to avoid buildup and greasiness.
- Opt for oils with high moisturizing effects without leaving a greasy residue.
Shampoo Ingredients for Low-Porosity Asian Hair
As with oils, there are shampoos (and ingredients) that come highly recommended for low-porosity hair, and they are:
Surfactants or Surface-Acting Agents
These are the primary cleaning agents in your shampoo. They increase the hair’s ability to get wet and reduce surface tension of the hair allowing cleaning agents to spread easily.
They are divided into two categories, further divided into 2 categories - Anionic surfactants and Non-Ionic surfactants. Anionic surfactants have a high degree of foamability and are good for washing off product buildup while non-ionic surfactants however are good for mild cleansing.
Surfactants are also further divided into sulfates and non-sulfates (sulfate-free). Sulfates are good for removing oils but can be harsh and dry. Sulfate-free options however are gentler and good for sensitive hair and everyday use.
Hydrating Ingredients
A healthy low porosity hair needs as much moisture as it can get due to its ability to repel water. The ideal shampoo should have high hydrating effects and contain moisturizing properties like propanediol and betaine. The former draws in moisture and the latter improves retention.
Extracts
Extracts (especially plant-based and floral), due to their natural components are good for low porosity Asian hair. These natural extracts are rich in vitamins, antioxidants, and other bioactive compounds that help hydrate and soothe the scalp and hair without causing irritation.
What to Avoid in Low-Porosity Hair Products
Protein Based Shampoo
Low porosity hair is protein sensitive. Excess protein causes protein build-up strengthening already tight cuticles and potentially leading to breakage and dryness. If you must use normal protein-based products, do so once a month or go for lightweight proteins like hydrolyzed keratin.
Sulfates
Sulfates like sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) can be very harsh on the skin and scalp because they strip the hair of essential lipids, draw out too much moisture, and leave the hair brittle causing irritation. Furthermore, they increase the hair’s porosity, strip it of proteins and leave the scalp vulnerable.
Excess Humectants
Humectants are important for hydration, but their effectiveness can vary based on environmental factors. Traditional humectants like glycerin can pull moisture from the air into the hair while emollients like shea butter and coconut oil due to their heavy nature can lead to build-up in your hair. Additionally, in humid environments, It may lead to frizzing and dryness.
Formaldehyde Preservatives
The oldest form of preservative in the cosmetic world but has now been banned due to its carcinogenic nature is formaldehyde. It can lead to brittleness and dryness of the scalp and hair after prolonged use.
Opt for products that have safer preservatives like Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin and Caprylyl Glycol. These ingredients prevent microbe buildup and elongate the shelf life of your products.
Final Thoughts
Low porosity hair doesn’t have to be difficult to manage, it’s just hair and knowing what your hair porosity is the first step to caring for it. For your low-porosity Asian hair, you should opt for clarifying shampoos, and lightweight products, avoid frequent washes, use a detangling conditioner and use heat sparingly.